I have about a 1900 sq. ft. house that is in desperate need of a new heatpump. I finally got a guy to come out and check it out. The old unit both inside and out are done. There is no point in repairing a 30 year old system that keeps breaking. My house is total electric so I’m getting an all electric heat pump. Here is what is offered: A 3.5 ton, 15 Seer American Standard heatpump with a matching variable speed air handler for the inside. I have a concrete slab house so the duct work is all ok after checking. Other than normal installation, they will have to run new refrigerant line from the compressor outside to the handler inside because my old system used R22 and i’m getting 410 with the new system. The guy estimates that it will cost about ,500 for all of it…including a new programmable thermostat. I’m having a hard time swallowing it because I can buy all of the equipment online for about ,500-3000. I just don’t have the knowledge to put it in, nor would there be a warranty if I did it. The warranty after install is for 10 years, and this unit qualifies for the tax deduction rebate by the gov. I live in a small town in Oklahoma and this guy is a certified dealer for American Standard. What do you think? A little pricey??

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heaters to turn on in my air handler, during the heat pump defrost mode? I just replaced my closet air handler, from a Goodman to a Payne and tied it into an 10 year old Goodman Heatpump. Everything works fine but my electric heaters do not come on when the heat pump goes into defrost. I am using the original Maple Chase 2 heat & 2 cool thermostat and my heat and cooling temps are good. The only problem is that the electric heat does not come on when the out door unit goes into defrost. However, if I manually switch the thermostat into emergency heat from the thermostat the electric heat works. At this point, I was told that I needed a 24 volt Isolation (double pole / double throw) relay. This makes sense but I am not sure how to wire it up.

During the heating mode, the reversing valve is NOT energized. But in the cooling mode and (defrost) it is. So, I was thinking of utilizing the "O" terminal coming from the defrost board from the out door unit and use it to power up my relay to energize my electric heat relays during defrost. But the problem with that is how do I wire that to an isolation relay and how do I make it bypass the electric heaters relay(s) during a call for cooling since my "O" terminal> reversing valve will then be energized?

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I want to replace an old Trane / Weatheron BAYSTAT240A 3AAT82B1B1 with a Honeywell TH4210D1005 but I just can’t seem to figure out how to wire it.

The Weatheron has 8 wires:

B – Blue
G – green
Y – yellow
O – orange
R – red
W – white
W – white – X2 (About an 1"long white wire connected from the W to X2)
T – tan – T

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Electric heat (do I need to turn my electricity off??? to install). Current thermostats are VERY old (probably 30 years). Its electric radiant heat in the ceiling. I want to put new ones in to be more efficient… but I also don’t want to screw stuff up and have no heat in MARCH…

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